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Rolex

Vintage Submariner owners: We have leather straps for you

Sometimes it’s just easier to add a fresh leather strap onto a vintage Rolex piece. Sure, there is Michael Young in Hong Kong, a well-respected bracelet refurbisher, but we think adding a high quality new leather strap is a smart way to go. Of course we are biased, but we honesty stand behind the quality of our leather straps and are now offering them for vintage Submariners and Submariners with date complications.

Before you scream “No leather on divers,” hear us out. Your 5513 probably isn’t guaranteed for its original water resistance rating so the issue of dunking your leather strap in a swimming pool is probably non-existent. Besides, Tudor offers leather OEM leather straps for its Black Bay lineup, so even the original makers of your divers are OK with the look and even encourage it. Everest straps are designed to look and feel like they were originally intended for your Rolex. We know they will feel great on the wrist.

The more rustic texture of leather also complements acrylic crystals and the painted dial markers, which often have developed a warm patina by now.

So for 5512, 5513 and 1680 (date) models, we are offering five different styles of leather straps with either a gold or silver tang buckle. Brown or black alligator looks really sharp with a fine point cotton dress shirt and blazer. And the tan leather works really well in contrast to the darker colors we tend to wear in the fall and winter.

Our straps are made from Italian vegetable tanned leather, which has a really nice feel and proven durability. Like most fine leathers, Everest straps get better with age and use.

Shop 5521 & 5513 straps

Shop 1680 straps

 

Rolex

Buying a vintage Datejust? Here’s a look at what’s out there

When it comes to buying a vintage Rolex Datejust model, it’s a buyer’s marketplace. Datejusts are widely available and come in a wide range of styles. Datejusts are an excellent choice if you are a one-watch person or mostly wear the same watch. At 36mm and thin enough to slip under a cuff, the look straddles the line between dressy and sporty very well. It’s totally suitable to wear one with swim trunks and flip-flops, the ultimate test of how casual a watch can go. It’s a timeless classic. So let’s take a look at what’s ut there.

Photo by Analog Shift

Black dial 16030 listed on Analog Shift: This one has all the good stuff vintage Rolex lovers seek, an acrylic crystal and tritium dial markers. And it has the one convenience that makes ownership more practical. Listed at $4,750, this one would make a fantastic workday watch that is very unpretentious, yet coveted by those in the know.  (click here for the complete listing)

Photo by Bob’s Watches

Champagne dial 16o1 list on Bob’s Watches: This model has what collectors call a Pie Pan dial, where the outer edge of the dial dips downwards. This example has an acrylic crystal and is from the the late 1970s. There’s something about the brilliance of a champagne dial that adds elegance to any Datejust. Listed for $3,295, it’s a lower cost to acquire, but may require more care due to its age. (See the full listing here)

Photo by Theo & Harris

All yellow gold Datejust 1601 listed on Theo & Harris: Sometimes you have to go for the gold, the all-gold Rolex. Wearing a gold watch can seem showy but some people just wear them with enough humility to pull it off very well.  Again the champagne dial here adds to overall luxe feel of the watch. Listed for $9,555, this one will be the right watch if you ooze an aura of luxury. (See the full listing here)

Rolex

The entry level Rolex

When it comes to Rolex the cost of entry is right around $5,000. You can play around in the used market or head straight to your local authorized dealer and choose on the many beautiful Oyster Perpetual models, which are great choices at any price point. Beware of any “deals” that fall too far below that range.

Yes, we are here to enable you. Getting a Rolex in your life has nothing to do with necessity, it’s an acceptable purchase if you love watches. It’s all about the passion and cost per wear. If wearing a Rolex makes you feel great every single day of your life then that’s a major value. We are not talking about pure materialism here. We are talking about the joy of surrounding yourself with beauty, whether that’s your home, clothes, car, neighborhood or the next meal you eat.

The blue dial 3-6-9 dial Oyster Perpetual in 36mm is a solid choice for a first Rolex.

When it comes to watch purchases always use your gut. What are you drawn to naturally? Don’t overthink the technical/on-paper attributes of a watch. How does it make you feel? Does it suit your personality/personal style?

One of our friends, style blogger Brock McGoff, recently made a video about how he found his perfect vintage Datejust and why he chose his 16030. Check out the video here:

The other popular route is to explore the world of pre-owned Datejusts, with good examples (from reputable dealers) coming in around the $5-6K mark.

If you are after a sport model, pre-owned five-digit Submariner or Sea-Dweller references are worth exploring. As always, adhere to the mantra “buy the seller,” namely someone with a solid reputation that has been in the business for a decent amount of time. A good seller will take the time to find the right watch for you and understands what you desire.

Rolex Sea Dweller 16600

The founder of our company Michael DiMartini has been a Rolex fan ever since he was young boy and he witnessed many stylish people in Italy wearing Rolex watches. The brand is powerful. It’s the most well-known “fancy watch” in the world to people who don’t know that much about watches. Rolexes also have an unmistakable level of quality and their movements are built to withstand vigorous use.

Thanks to the boom of used watches being sold online, now is a great time to get your first Rolex. You can comparison shop among top sites and communicate your questions about a piece easily. Be patient. Find your vision of the perfect watch and don’t follow the popular opinions of others. What’s on your wrist should speak to you and you only.

Rolex

The ceramic Submariner 114060 vs. 14060

I had the pinnacle of the modern sport Rolex, a ceramic bezel no-date Submariner 114060. I eventually sold it for its aluminum bezel predecessor, the 14060m. Same movement, much different case, bezel insert and bracelet. Let’s take a look at the Submariner 114060 vs. 14060.

Photo credit: Apia Creations

For me, the older version’s case is more streamlined, with thinner lugs and a bezel insert that’s easily replaceable if damaged. The old rattly bracelet feels a lot cheaper, but it wears very comfortably. Of course modern sport Rolex bracelets are amazing feats of engineering and design. The Glidelock clasp works well for on-the-fly micro adjustments, but fortunately for me, my wrist doesn’t swell up that much in the heat, so minute changes in bracelet size aren’t as meaningful to me.

Gridlock allows for tool-free micro adjustments.

The old style micro adjustment requires a toothpick to make adjustments.

The dial of the 114060 uses blue Chromalite lume, which emits a blue glow, whereas the older 14060 uses a green lume. The new blue lume looks amazing and wins out here. While there’s  nothing wrong functionally with the green, the blue appears very clean and matches the overall luxury feel of the modern sport Rolex.

The 14060 has a smaller dial markers that the ceramic version.

The ceramic bezel version features larger dial markers and looks great on an Everest Band, we must say.

The cerachrom ceramic bezel on the 114060 won’t fade or scratch. The traditional aluminum bezel may scratch or fade, but is less-expensive to replace. Both look very sharp, as Submariners can be identified by the crisp bezel insert from a distance.

The 14060m version also features the same movement as the 114060, the 3130, which features a Parachrom hairspring, which Rolex says makes the movement more resistant to magnetism and shock. The 14060 sans “m” designation does not offer this feature, but many owners of the older movement report no issues in timekeeping and basic durability.

The bottom line

I chose to keep the older 14060m because of the case shape. It has thinner lugs and looks leaner, less boxy. This look suits my lifestyle as I transition between wearing a sport coat and dress shirt to T-shirt and chinos quite often. The more subdued look of the aluminum bezel Submariner works better for me.

That said if you favor a more flashy Sub with an bracelet that feels extremely solid, the 114060 is a no-brainer. Its case shape is sportier and more casual, which may also work well for you if you have a dressier watch to wear with dressier clothes.

 

Rolex

Datejust 41 vs. 36: It’s a tough call

When Rolex introduced the Datejust 41, the watch fandom lauded the thinner case and smaller overall proportions compared the Datejust II model, which was released in 2009. The new Datejust 41 (released in an all-steel version in 201&), with its 70-hour power reserve, looked more like a larger classic Datejust (36mm case) instead of a bigger and beefier version of the classic the Datejust II resembles.

But for many men, the classic Datejust felt too small given the modern standard for men’s watch sizes. We had the opportunity to try both on at Tourneau near Bryan Park in Manhattan. We pretty much walked away still undecided. If push came to shove, we’d choose the classic. Here’s why:

Smaller is appropriate, given the style

Even though in 2018 larger watches are more “in,” men’s fashion is cyclical. What’s popular in the past inevitably seems to crawl back into style. Classic men’s watches on the dressier side of the spectrum have hovered around 34-37 mm in case said. The Datejust and Submariner are among Rolex’s most iconic (and popular) models so they have both made a lasting impression at their original case sizes. The Datejust is meant to be smaller than a sport watch so that it can be scaled proportionally to a man in traditional office clothing with a dress shirt. Also, it may look small in the watch shop, but once you leave your eyes will get used to seeing the smaller proportions.

Before we continue, let’s get one thing out of the way: If you have an exceptionally big wrist the Datejust 41 will probably be better for you. It’s all about proportions. But for most men, erring on the side of smaller will make sense.

Well, it is a classic

The Rolex Datejust has been around since 1945. Legend has it that Hans Wilsdorf’s wife had a difficult time reading her watch, so the Wilsdorf had the magnifying lens added to the Datejust model. The iconic cyclops was born and has since been one of the most recognizable attributes of the brand. Winston Churchill and Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. are among the famous figures in history known to have worn a classic Datejust.

The case for the 41

Just as we’ve convinced ourselves to stay to the tried-and-true classic 36mm Datejust, there are a lot of compelling reasons to spring for the  41. One thing is the case size is actually closer to 39mm in spite of the same of the model. This makes is not that far for the original size, so if you are closer the large end of the spectrum when it comes to wrist size, you feel good knowing the newer model is not that much bigger than the original. The oyster or jubilee bracelets come with the EasyLink extension system, which makes on-the-fly sizing adjustments a simple affair.

The new calibre 3225 movement offers about 30 more hours of power reserve compared the standard Datejust movement, which can be a huge benefit to some owners who might leave their Rolex off on the weekends, for example. The Oyster case is water resistant to 100 meters, which lends the Datejust a sporty attribute, making it at home on the beach. If you are going to own one watch or basically wear the same watch most of the time, the larger case size can help you straddle the lines between dressy and casual more easily. It’s easier to dress down a dressy watch than try to dress up a sporty watch.

But in the end

As much as we marvel a the technical innovations of watches, what matters most is how it looks on our wrists. We’d still go for the classic 36mm Datejust as it’s always going to be a very elegant choice for any gentleman. It’s trend proof and full of restraint—attributes we’d like to be known for too.

Just check on this image from Valetmag.com’s feature on the style of the movie “Borg vs. McEnroe”:

 

 

 

 

Oyster Perpetual Rolex

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual in White Dial: One of our surprise favorites of Baselworld 2018

One of the subtler moves Rolex announced at Baselworld 2018 was the introduction of both a black dial and white dial Oyster Perpetual model in both 39mm and 36mm case sizes. The entry-level model is a favorite of ours and to have it now available not in a brightly colored dial is a option we’ve longed for. Previously available in Grape, Blue and Rhodium dials, the conservative white version struck us an excellent alternative to the black-dialed sport Rolexes that are our tried-and-true go to everyday wearers. White dials deliver instant class and, of course, can be paired with a variety of outfits.

Photo credit: Dante Barger for Bezel&Barrel

While many of us area watch collectors or hobbyists who rotate our wrist wear on a regular basis, the Oyster Perpetual white dial version is a smart choice for someone who simply wants to wear one watch for every occasion, everyday. Depending on your wrist size and personal preferences, the 36mm or 39mm would serve well as all purpose watch. With a 100m water-resistance rating and chronometer certified movement, the OP promises to be a very dependable time telling companion.